
The weather was mild and nice in Resurrection Bay. 30 degrees and sunny marking the official start of spring in the Kenai Peninsula. Summer in Alaska is romantically beautiful but spring is really the best time to be here. There is an eerie silence in Seward and on the highway. The only people you see are truckers, commuters, skiers, snowmachiners. People who live here, and who like the rugged wilderness. The mountains are draped with sheets of fine white snow. I’m diving into my first year as a manager for the Glacier Lodge. I’m feeling mostly useless right now. I have big shoes to fill. Some days I just open the email and look through drives I’ve already seen, wishing there was more I knew to do. But like most things, when the time comes and the work is in front of me. I think I will figure it out. Loading up the boat is familiar and makes me feel helpful. The captain, Jamie and his wife Amy are the type of people I feel honored to know. Just casual badasses. There are so many up here. People who have worked all types of jobs, and work them hard.They are so humble about their insane sailing adventures or harding ice field snowmachine outings. As the engine starts and the two dogs find seats for the boat ride, I’m remembering how much I love the water.

We taxi quickly out of the harbor and start hauling out of the bay. The seas are choppy, with some rollers today. It will be a fairly bumpy ride until we pass Cape Aialik. I am in the company of friends. We are all headed out to see how much snow has accumulated this winter at the Glacier Lodge. We do this to see what kind of work we’ll have to do in April which is when we move in for real. This helps us gauge how much snow will need to be moved, if bears have eaten vehicles or furniture and most importantly if we can do any staining on all of the wooden structures. I’m feeling a little anxious about the sea state, sometimes on the boat I get a little sea sick. But one of the dogs has chosen my lap and we get through the rough waves together. The other dog is still getting her sea legs and threw up all over Amy. As soon as we round the Cape the seas become glass, and we are back in Aialik Bay.

Aialik Bay is the prettiest place in the world. Pristine waters, incredibly characteristic towering mountains, all carved by ancient glaciers whose remnants we can still see. I get annoyed when naturalists and transcendentalists try to capture the beauty of a place in words. To me it all sounds the same. But every time I’m in the bay, I feel like my eyes can’t look hard enough. I feel like my brain should be photocopying every bit of this place, and overwriting all my memories with each cliff and cove. This place feels important and there is magic in the air. To get to see it at a time when its only residents are the squirrels and the seals and the birds is special.

Immediately we noticed something. There is not much snow and also, the beach is much steeper. So we land the craft against the shore and unload our gear and sleds. Standing on the point makes me feel strange. It is familiar and comforting. But this is a place with such a distinct port of entry in my mind, it is a 2-4 hour boat ride here. The same boat ride. As the crow flies, it is only 80 miles from me.I forget that in all my days pouring beer at the Sitzmark and commuting to and from Anchorage, The Point is still here, collecting snow. It has no winter job or travel plans. It has been here since the end of the last ice age.

I strap a sled onto my bag and clip into my skis. I follow my friends down the road I’ve walked hundreds of times. This time, snow mixes with the black sand. We slid past the snow stakes we drove into the ground seven months ago, used to mark the road. Normally when I am here, I see wildlife. Occasionally coyotes, otters, bears and often eagles. But here, on the canvas of snow, they only leave their tracks behind. It’s like coming home to a relative in your house after work. Things are slightly ajar, a bag and coat are hanging on a chair. There are signs that someone is here, but not someone you can see. There is a trail of prints with wing-swept snow framing mirrored three pronged tracks every few feet. An eagle was hopping along the snow, the flapping of its wings left perfect sun-ray shaped indents along its path. We continue to skin and reach the annual snow measuring spot. A company wide email is sent out to some local folks and leadership to guess the snow total for each season. Everyone who was on the boat guessed way higher, given that in the rest of Alaska the snow has held all season. It was a brutally cold winter and the geography of this place leads to an abnormal amount of precipitation when the warmer cycles come through. Amy is the winner with a guess of 22 inches. The actual reading is 17 inches. I am a loser with a guess of 42.

We reach camp, and all the buildings are still there. We unlock a few key places and head to the front of the lodge to see the boardwalks and the lagoon. Pedersen Lagoon is there. It is calm and quiet, and there are seals and otters just off the shore. I take a bite into a sandwich while thinking about all the sandwiches I’ve eaten here. How many new faces will get to eat sandwiches here and wonder if they’ll be as sentimental as I am. I wonder if my friends could possibly be feeling the same way. After enjoying the exercise of damage assessment and lagoon appreciation we have some actual work to do. A piece of roof has been blown off by a storm, heaters need to be turned on to spend the night, batteries must be tested, snow blowers must be started and if we can clear out a little bit of snow we can hope that it will melt out by April 23rd. Leaving little more work to do and a deck free for staining.

We are hoisting a ladder up against some staff housing. Our goal is to clear snow and reattach the piece of roofing to prevent waterlogging and leaking in the housing. As I climb a 10 foot ladder in ski boots while holding a snow shovel in one hand it reminds me how much I love this kind of thing. Inversely, how much I hate beer pouring at the Sitzmark. After some chopping and pushing, the roof section is ready to be reattached. My next mission is to chop more snow and try to blow off the decks to allow the snow to melt out quicker when the rain dumps begin. One step closer to deck staining. I warm up quickly, hacking away and chopping snow to prepare for it to be blown by the blower. Hardpack bonded snow doesn’t get gobbled up as well, so the bonded layers need to be chopped and mixed a bit to make for a more cohesive blowing experience. Every winter of my childhood in Florida I looked at the forecast with a burning hope that it would snow. I had a few memories of snow, but now I have to move tons of it and sometimes be waist deep in it. I get to learn how it moves and to practice not being killed by it. To many people, it is just part of living here and is as passive as the lack of snow. But the novelty never wears off to me. The snowblower is not starting, so my snow has been chopped for no reason. I like to think of it as a Mr. Miyagi type exercise that will one day prove me victorious in some sort of tournament. There is Zen in everything.

With the snowblower broken we are able to relax for the rest of the day, or explore. I gather a posse to skin around on some of the trails we frequent in the summer. It was a little boney. The open areas normally full of hungry bears in the perfect bear concealing sized grass is currently a wet blanket of snow. So we push around the Ghost trees and admire the scenery here. There is a garden of ice bergs washed up along the north shore. Brought in from the glaciers as the tide swings each day. The temperatures aren’t warm enough to melt them away by the end of the day this time of year. The ice is waist high and would prove an incredible place for hide and seek, or a paintball match, or capture the flag. As we returned to camp, I was still feeling a bit antsy. So I continued pushing around to our other trails alone. I headed south along the shoreline of the lagoon, staying on all the snow I could. Winter allows access to some normally impassable muddy bogs that are amazing when they are full of snow. I reach the southern end of the small Peninsula. Looking out south, there are the high walls of the fjord, running gradually into an open ocean. The nearest landmass south of here are the Aleutian Islands, if you are lucky. Your next best bet is Hawaii. I love this spot. In the car on the drive to Seward, Jeff (my boss) and I spoke of someone we knew. They have a grounding mat. We talked about how we believe that grounding is bullshit. But still, here. Standing at the face of The Gulf of Alaska, I have never found a place that made me feel more grounded. My dear friend David wrote in his blog about how being near Aialik glacier tempted him to describe the landscape as extra terrestrial. But in truth, this is the most terrestrial place he has seen. Highways seem to drop away from my memory, and shopping plazas and Air fryers. For whatever reason whenever I stand here, it is enough. Grounding is bullshit, but in this very spot it is not.

The rest of the night healed all the damage that another brutally dark, cold and disappointing winter has caused to my psyche. There is a loneliness in the extraterrestrial world that we’ve built that is not present here. Our phones had no grip on us that day. The only thing that mattered was the hot lasagna, boxed wine and company. I like to imagine that my afterlife would be filled with days and nights like this. Wherein the massive granitic boulders of anxiety are eroded away by the aqueous and compassionate scrutiny of my friends mixed with the cheap wine we shared. We trade stories of first cars, and crack wise about paving over the fields here with asphalt. We traded stories of past employees and friends that we missed, or don’t miss. It was a standard campfire affair. I fell in love with people in my teens. Marching drum corps is a vacuum. It is insular and physical and it takes you from being an individual and makes you into a collective body. I had a tough homelife, and found that the hard days, physicality and all-consuming nature of it were a good distraction. But spending time with people who loved things just as much as I did taught me to really love people. Would the Glacier Lodge be special without the people? Yes, absolutely. But on nights like this, I would be just as grateful for the same company anywhere else in the world. It was late, so we all retreated to our spaces to sleep.

In the morning, we took care of some other small projects. We verbally blueprinted some renovations, then packed up to leave. It’s strange to be there for a day. Normally I come in on the boat only to not really leave for four months. I am grateful for the chance to see this place again and to know that it is still there, not so far away. This adventure log is less of an adventure than the prior. There wasn’t very much unknown to be explored. But there will be. I have taken a plunge to change my relationship with this special place. I will have less afternoons on the beach, less mornings drenched in cold rain, with boots full to the brim of brackish water. I have traded them for busy evenings in the lodge, and bigger decisions. Everyone tells me that they know I will do great. I believe it is the same disease I have that makes them believe that, that also makes me feel overwhelmed by it. But it is my love for people that helps keep my head on straight.



























































